WIP: 2 Piranhas
Since I decided to put two Piranhas into my tournament list, I decided that it would behoove me to get some painted and ready. Fortunately, I just happened to have two of them assembled, primed, and already sprayed Knarloc Green. I put in a couple of hours last night in my spare time and got working on the flats and inking. So far, so good. It's my first attempt at painting something that's in more than one piece, but I'm looking forward to the extra detail I'll be able to get by painting the pilots and the skimmer separately.
Meanwhile, my Deathrains are in the background, patiently awaiting detail work, which I'll work on this weekend. I have two weeks to the tournament; I don't think I should have any problem getting these guys painted and getting my two new Devilfish assembled in time.
WIP: 3 Deathrains, part 2
I've managed more work on my Deathrains over the last couple of evenings, and I've finished the flats and lining. On top of the Knarloc Green basecoat, I've painted the suit bodies in Goblin Green, with some Gory Red (Vallejo's Red Gore equivalent) on the team leader. The front sections of the missile pods are still in Knarloc Green to provide a bit of visual interest/contrast. After that was complete, I went in with my Zig Millenium micron pen and colored in the armor gaps. I have to say that Zig Milleniums are still my favorite micron pen; I was less than impressed with Sakura's product. While it might be great for inking on paper, it didn't suit my purposes nearly as well as the Zig. It may just be a difference in the pen's nib, but whatever the difference is, it had me falling back on my old standby.
The next step is clean-up, where I'll retouch any areas where my layers of Goblin Green and Gory Red didn't get good coverage, make sure there's no overpainting, and generally get things sharpened up. After that, it's on to detail work, where I'll do things like edge highlighting, lenses, and any weathering. Finally, I'll get the bases finished up, and this unit will be ready to roll.
On a somewhat related note, I'm prepping for a 40K tournament on the 23rd - my first in almost a year. The missions themselves are being kept secret, but I've decided to go with my aggressive list, hoping that I can inflict enough damage on my opponents to keep them from hitting my fragile objective holders. There is one minor, tiny flaw with my plan - I'm short one Devilfish! In friendly games, I just proxy in using one of my spare Hammerhead hulls, but that won't fly in a tournament. I've got a couple of options that I can go with to get an additional 'fish, but I may have to revise my plans and my list somewhat if I can't make it happen in the next 2 weeks. Fortunately, this tournament doesn't require that things be painted, so I can run bare gray plastic if need be. It'll be ugly, but it'll get the job done.
WIP: Three Deathrains
I took advantage of some extra free time during the New Year's weekend to stay on top of my painting. First up for 2010 is a trio of Deathrain crisis suits. I've had these particular minis primed for over a year now, so they're long overdue to get some color. So far, I have them basecoated in Knarloc Green, with the team leader having a splash of Mechrite Red as well. Next up is doing the flats, which will mostly be a coat of Goblin Green. I'm hoping I can have these guys knocked out in a week or so. After that, I have a Helios HQ/Team Leader suit that's basecoated and ready for more work, and after that, I'm not sure what I'll be painting next. I might switch things up and start working on my Berzerkers.
(As a side note, re-examining these guys makes me wince a bit when I see how many mold-lines I left, especially on the missile pods and shoulders. When I assembled these, I was less experienced and not as attentive when it came to pre-painting clean-up. Oh, well; live and learn!)
Just under the wire
We only had a half-day at work today thanks to the holiday, so I managed to squeeze in an hour or two of painting this afternoon. Thanks to that, I was able to complete one of my goals for the month: getting both of my Hammerheads painted. Once I have time to set up something other than my phone's camera, I'll get a shot of the Tau I have painted so far.
Now I just have to figure out what to paint next. I've got three Deathrain suits primed and ready, but I could also get started on a squad Khorne Berzerkers. Maybe I could switch off between the two armies. Decisions, decisions...
Extreme Close-up! Working with a Magnifier Lamp
For Christmas, my wife bought me an APCO Magnifier Lamp. She said she didn't like seeing me strain to see fine details as I held a mini a few inches from my face, so she took pity on me and got me this wonderful tool. Last night, I took it through its paces while doing edging and highlighting on Hammerhead #2. I will say that it slowed down my work a bit at first, because it took a bit of adjusting to get used to it. If you haven't yet worked with one of these, here are a few things to keep in mind.
- The light is very intense. The fluorescent tube on this lamp creates some very bright light, enough to light up an already-lit room. While this is great for being able to see details well, it can be a bit jarring at first. Even more jarring is the adjustment your eyes have to make when you turn it off; everything will seem very muted for a bit, and it can be hard to see the details you just painted in normal light. You will want to see them in normal light, because...
- The light is very cool. I don't mean cool as in "awesome"; I mean cool as in temperature. It's a very blue-white light, which means it will change the nature of the colors you're working with. I highly recommend mixing and testing your colors in natural/warmer lighting in order to get a sense of how they'll really look on the mini before you whip out the magnifier lamp.
- The light obliterates shadows. This may seem like it goes without saying, but I bring this up for two very important reasons. First, if you're using natural shadows to figure out where to highlight, this light will make that very difficult; you're best served doing that under natural light. Secondly, losing shadows means that you'll lose one of those subtle visual indications of how far the brush is from the miniature. The intense light flattens everything somewhat, so you have to retrain your eye to look for the new, lighter shadows that the lamp creates. Once you've figured it out, you should be good to go.
- The magnifier will wobble a bit. The lamp is mounted on a spring-tensioned swing arm mounted on a pivot point that clamps to your table or desk. You can tighten down the joints on the arm to lock it in place, but not the pivot point. Because of this, you will get a little residual side-to-side movement right after you get the magnifier situated, or if you bump it slightly while working. You can steady it again with your hand, but be prepared for a little wobbling, which, combined with the natural fish-eye effect of the lens itself, can be a bit disorienting.
- The magnifier has a sweet spot. Thanks to the fish-eye effect, you can't just put the magnifier generally over your work area and get good use out of it. You'll have to experiment with the magnifier and figure out the right distance between you, it, and your miniature to get clear magnification. I've discovered that you can either work with the magnifier right in front of your face, or at about half an arm's length away, and that seems to work well. The mini itself will have to be relatively close to the lens, so keep that in mind when using your brush; you'll have to hold it at an angle, rather than pointed directly at the mini.
- The magnifier will highlight every detail and imperfection. This isn't so much a working concern as it is just something you'll notice. You will see every uneven line and every incomplete brush stroke. You will see every minor flaw in the mini, in the priming, and in the painting. Details that look fantastic at arm's length or on the tabletop may look crude and clumsy up close. Don't let that discourage you. No one is going to be looking at the mini as close as you are at that moment, and once it's out from under the lens it'll look fine again.
Keep these six things in mind, and you can benefit greatly from a magnifier lamp. It will encourage you to sharpen up your detail work and to try finer details than you've tried before, because now you'll actually be able to work on that small a scale. If you want to step up your mini painting game, I highly recommend one of these.

I love lamp.




